Brocade with lozenge pattern- Hunan Museum
Home Mawangdui Artifacts Brocade with lozenge pattern
Brocade with lozenge pattern
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Date:Western Han (206 BCE-9 CE)
Medium:Silk

Dimensions: Length: 60cm; width: 24cm

Origin: Excavated from Han Tomb No.1, Mawangdui, Changsha City, Hunan Province,1972

Brocade with lozenge pattern (also called tease brocade or nap brocade) is a four-warp jacquard fabric made with three warps to form piled circles. The flower designs that form its geometric pattern are well-arranged, with large and small piled circles alternating with each other to create an exquisitely beautiful three-dimensional pattern similar to relief. 

The pattern is mainly made up of over 18 unit designs such as oblongs, geometric dots, angles and zigzags. Such multi-warp jacquard fabric calls for both ground warp and tease warp, with the tease warp three times thicker than the ground warp. During the actual weaving, a special thin rod known as “tease rod” is woven into the fabric to cause the tease warps raised above the surface of the fabric. The tease rod is then taken out, leaving behind a three-dimensional effect similar to relief.